In July 2026, Tan Wee Cheng crossed the Strait from Singapore into West Sumatra, Riau, Jambi and South Sumatra, chasing the root system beneath the Malay world's many branches. Ten days carry him from a forearm-load of Nasi Padang into Minangkabau highlands where dancers walk barefoot on broken porcelain, past buffalo-horn mosques and river towns guarding old secrets, down to Palembang, where an empire once ruled the sea. Under the Buffalo Horns makes its case mosque by mountain by monsoon: this is one continuous story, and Singapore was never really outside it.
Chapters of the Journey
Prologue
A Corridor, Not a Border
The Melaka Strait, fluid trade identities, and reimagining the maritime continuum linking Singapore and Sumatra.
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Chapter One
Nasi Padang and the Taj Mahal by the Sea
Coastal Padang, grand seaside mosques, and the unforgettable ritual of stacked-plate Minangkabau feast tables.
Read Chapter 1
Chapter Two
Into the Highlands
Bukittinggi, the dramatic Sianok Canyon, Jam Gadang, and climbing into misty volcanic ridges.
Read Chapter 2
Chapter Three
The Time Capsule of Sawahlunto
Ombilin coal mining heritage, Dutch colonial architecture, railway shafts, and historical preservation.
Read Chapter 3
Chapter Four
The Palace That Refuses to Fall
Istano Basa Pagaruyung, royal matrilineal lineage, buffalo-horn gables, and living Minangkabau adat.
Read Chapter 4
Chapter Five
Crossing to the Malay Lowlands
Descending the Bukit Barisan toward Riau and Pekanbaru, tracing the shifts from highland adat to lowland sultanates.
Read Chapter 5
Chapter Six
The River That Keeps Its Secrets
The ancient brick stupas of Muaro Jambi, the Batang Hari river, and the enduring quietude of sacred ruins.
Read Chapter 6
Chapter Seven
Palembang, Where an Empire Ruled the Sea
The Musi River, Srivijaya maritime archaeology, floating warungs, pempek aromas, and the iconic Ampera Bridge.
Read Chapter 7
Epilogue
The Corridor, Reconsidered
Synthesis of ten days across four provinces: how the Malay root system continues to anchor the regional sea.
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USEFUL PRACTICAL DETAILS
First week of this trip was organised by Nurhikmah Travel & Tours for ICOMOS Singapore. Outside of West Sumatra, I travelled on Garuda Indonesia Airlines, booked my lodging with Booking.com and Trip.com. For car and driver hire, I have used these firms:
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Pekanbaru: Global Rent CarWhatsApp: +6285365588855
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Jambi: Basmallah Rent CarWhatsApp: +6285368440109
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Palembang: Ismi Car Rental PalembangWhatsApp: +628117892325
